Switching regulated, or Transformers? Choose the correct supply

!±8± Switching regulated, or Transformers? Choose the correct supply

I received another message from Dan to power this time to ask:

Subject: Frustrated with converter

So, the last month or two I tried to understand how different types operate from AC to DC power supplies, because I have a couple of audio / video receivers, trying to install fans inside the PC that this type of power required the '.

The problem is that I have drives that are less than 18 volts DC. I studied capacitors, variousTypes of diodes and means, which seem to connect, but I can not, in order to reduce tension. I have several ways to connect a resistance to it, and sometimes the resistance begins to smoke or not to change much try anything. im only really bothered spent many hours on this simple project. I would not ask you to explain to various electronic parts, because you're probably very busy so instead of giving me a brief answer to this?

I was more than 50 sites all over Google and can notYouTube, which I understand.

So it sounds like Dan has a situation where it is converted to alternating current to direct current, DC but he is too high for use with a 12V fan. The quickest solution is to find a fan AC (exist, but they can be strong and excessive for this type of situation). So instead we look to seek alternatives.

Let's say that Dan from the power supply is 12V and 18V fan needs a quiet PC.

Voltage regulator

Where you need a large amount of electricity,with a resistor / voltage divider is not always the best idea, because the current level causes heating / smoking - and that is usually a bad thing. An alternative is to use a voltage regulator - this is the same, forward excess power as heat, but in a controlled manner and let you be a cooling body. You need to find the current through the fan motor is necessary, then multiply by the voltage drop. So if you try to delete 18V to 12V and fanshould be 1 / 4 amp - it would be (18-12) * 4.1 = 1.5 Watts to be. (Watts and volts x amperes equal). The connection is simple - three legs: Input voltage, output voltage and GND.

Act as a regulator of Sun 1.5Watt warming, and if you do not have enough heat sink is attached, can overheat and go into thermal shutdown.

(As the controller has 5V laser harp to my original plan)

So if the power loss is not so high, it would be the cheapest solution would be to usethe regulatory authority.

Converters

A better method is to use more efficient power supply "switching" power. These take the input voltage (18V) and turn it on and very fast (several thousand times per second). The time that the voltage is compared with the amount of time that goes by so-called "duty cycle". So if I convert 18V to 12V, I wanted to do a cycle of 2 / 3. This is then fed through a network to smooth pull back to DC. I recently built some efficient DCConverter for a robotics project. It 'was important to the passage, because it does not discharge the battery to a power supply.

AC-DC

If Dan wants to touch only the power must be regulated, and increased first. The old school way to do this to a transformer winding that is close (but slightly above), the tension that you want to use. For example - 110V to 16V would be a good step down. AC 16V is then fed into a series of full-wave rectifierDiodes, the full-wave rectification are doing, and finally smoothed by 2-3 large capacitors, the voltage to something useful.

It should be noted that switching power supplies that can operate directly from AC. The AC is rectified and smoothed, but the full 110V and out to generate the power needed. The beauty of these units is that either 110V or 220V from the same, only the circuit controls the output and adjusts theDuty with the transition to the input voltage is passed Deal

Probably the best thing to do for Dan, check out the surplus electronics sites and take a 12V or 5V switching "power supply" and then install inside the case. They are small, efficient, and eventually sold for a dollar or two.

Switching regulated, or Transformers? Choose the correct supply

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Submersible Well How to replace

!±8± Submersible Well How to replace

Replacing a submersible pump and is not a difficult task and is relatively easy if you know the basics of a good system - such as positioning of the pump, submersible pump and how it operates, how it fitted in well casing. They do it with an advanced knowledge of some basic electrical wiring and plumbing do it yourself is likely to be able to replace a submersible pump, irrigation pump. This is not a step-by-step installation instructions, but rather an overview of a generalTo assess understanding, if you do it yourself or hire a contractor. 60% of the total price of the contractor, the job - the savings in labor costs, although it will be over 50. The first factor in deciding whether to attempt to do it yourself how deep the well is set and you have sufficient space to place the hose in your garden if you are attracted to start from the case. If your a good 50 'to 150' deep, I'd recommend doing it yourself if youphysically able to lift and continuously over 40 to 70 pounds of weight and keep it for the complete removal of the pump during a fall to take back into the well. You will need at least one other person who can help pull the pump and the leader of the line pressure from the elevator and you.

The steel pipe, iron or PVC pipe is usually 3 "or 4" in diameter and this looks like a sleeve, in which the pump, pressure hoseand wiring to go to reach the water level in the casing pipe. For the submersible pump, line pressure, typically 1 "to 1 - ¼" flexible polyethylene pipe and power lines running in this case the depth of the submersible pump in the well. The deeper the well, which is increasingly difficult to distinguish. The weight of the pump can help relieve some maneuvers and hold over the hose to connect the pump to prevent it from sliding andFall back into the pipes, as you prefer. Once you start pulling the pump, the movement continues until it completely from the body. If you do this manually on a rope can easily switch to the top of the cap well so that the other person to keep it or tie it to something - a tree or a fence, between lifts if you take a break and have to stop lifting.

If you decide to replace the pump in the well itself, here are some tips to remember.Determine that the pump motor is bad, from switches, circuit breakers and make sure that the power at the wellhead. When current head, and is a good sign that the pump is broken. Turn off power to the breaker panel, tags and locks for safety before releasing the good head start. Clear the area around the fountain head, about 6 'to 8' in diameter, shrubs and plants in order to have enough space, you must pause the output of the pump and electrical connections. Disconnect the pressure line andDisconnect the wiring to the junction box near the top of the fountain. Loosen the screws on the top of the lid, which is a kind of squeezing cover with a thick rubber ring that expands as tight and loose contracts with respect to the interior housing. Once loose, try to lift the lid, as it always has an idea of ​​how difficult it is all from which to lift it from the sources must lift.

Now you are ready for lifting the pump. Rubber gloves, protective clothing or overalls shouldturning point, since the pump tubing, an iron-and-mud can rest on the outside and can be quite a messy job. Tie string around the top edge of the hole for the other person to hold or tie, if necessary. Some wells have a rope or cable lead is already installed from the original, rather than mounted on the discharge hose and connection. The person who should do the actual drawing directly on the state well to the pressure line directly from the body and liftThe other person must remain with the top of the cap well and drive it where it likes to pull left. Make sure the person driving the end is a good handle on the end before you get to manage another release. Continue to pump assembly is completely out of the washing tank and the pump end, so you can review the day of the specific pump.

Collect information from the old pump - make, model, HP, voltage, phase, 110/220, rpm, 2 or 3 wire configuration, continuous operation andthe outlet pressure of the pump and the size of the diameter of the tube. Most residential submersible pumps are both 2-wire or 3-wire configuration. The 2-wire design has 2 - 110v wires to the pump body with a fall down. The pump does not require 2-wire controls. If there is a 3-wire pump, you should also replace the controls.

Most of the submersible pump are bolted together two pieces device consists of an assembly and the motor and pump. You can only choose to replace the motor or pump, if it is, but I'd reallysuggest to replace the whole assembly. After determining the type and size of pump you have, you may decide to maintain the system with a higher volume pump to maintain the same configuration update. To upgrade, you must use a vendor or for recommendations on the compatibility with your needs and size of pipes, pumps encourage contacts.

The installation of new pump assembly. Make a detailed list of new parts, controls, connectors and cables needed. If the existingFlex hoses and cables are in good condition, no need to replace them. To install the new pump, you must connect the wires together in a watertight connection. Consult an electrician or contractor to set the power cable connector junction good technique and applications. Close door fittings and clamps as the manufacturer's instructions. Connect the power cord every 2 "for the duration of the hose to facilitateReinstall the pump in the crankcase. Turn off the power to check the pump for a short time, if it works before you put the assembly in the well. Turn the power switch, and prepare the pump into the well again with two people - the lower opening well and cover the power of the pump down and the other person to feed the game well in the lead again to To keep you and to help prevent the pump is dropping rapidly and the chassis.

Submersible Well How to replace

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